Black Buffalo, White Buffalo

Leaving behind Phongsally sea clouds I took a couple of boats down to Muang Ngoi Neua (easy name). The place is only reachable by boat though they are building a road, good for locals but will spoil the charm. The setting was beautiful with dramatic karst formations around. Not less impressive were the 1.50 euro dinner or breakfast buffets. On arrival people were having party, wedding? Nope, a lady got well after being sick. A good reason for people to get drunk.

From Muang Goi Whatever we walked to a pretty Khamu village. There we slept in a bamboo for half an euro the night. The village was more developed than the Akha one but still no electricity, hence no cold beer. Surprisingly there was a 3 days wedding party happening there. We stayed 2 nights joining them on the eating/drinking (the usual laolao free bar)/circle dancing. This time they slaughtered a buffalo for the occasion and the intestines were on the table, yummy! The atmosphere reminded me of Kusturica movies, but in slow motion (Lao pace).

Once the party was over we left to walk through the jungle to get to a more remote village with only 4 families living there. One great night there and time to walk to the river to catch a boat and comeback to the buffet.

On my last day in the main village I went for a swim. I spotted a bunch of water buffaloes sunbathing on a pretty river bank sand river.
They seemed really cool and laid back. I wanted to hang out with them and even have the hope they may like me and would accept me as a member of their gang and stay there. Not even close. When I was approaching them with my best smile the leader of the group stand up and stared at me in a non friendly way. I knew that look. I was used to get it from the herds of posh girls at Spanish posh bars. – What you think you are doing? You don’t belong here. Go back.


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